History
"Villa d’Arceno: living in a wonderful place" written by Vera Marcolini
The area of Villa d'Arceno spreads over thousand hectares among the hills of the Sienese Chianti area, inserted between Castelnuovo Berardenga and San Gusmé.
In ancient times it was a small Etruscan community, in the Middle Ages it became the property of the Berardenghi family, founders of the Abbey of Saint Salvatore (Abbazia di San Salvatore), then it was split up among many small owners, it revived at the end of the fifteenth century when a rich Sienese family, the Del Taia, started to buy the various farmhouses and parish churches, one by one.
In the high Middle Ages there were four small parish churches and at least two castles in this area. The names of today's farmhouses reveal the ancient origins.
The names of today's farmhouses reveal the ancient origins.
Saint John (San Giovanni) was a parish church cited for the first time in the "Stationer of Berardenga" (Cartulario della Berardenga) in 1056; then there were Saint Peter (San Pietro) (today's chapel belonging to the Villa), Saint Donato (San Donato) of probable Longobard origin with the function of guard tower as well and at last Saint Lawrence and Fabian (San Lorenzo e Fabiano), today transformed into a farmhouse in Pancole, where also a small convent owned by the nuns of Saint Petronilla was annexed.
A castle was the present Pallazzaccio, while the Montecchio farmhouse was another guard tower.
Thus a community capable of defending itself and preserving its life unity.
The Del Taia family, of Longobard origin, had moved to Siena at the middle of the fourteenth century and started to extend its properties in Villa d'Arceno buying first Montecchio and thereafter all the farmhouses existing at the time. In the middle of the seventeenth century it transformed the group of houses around the parish church of Saint Peter into the present Villa.
The Del Taia family bought also most part of the San Gusmé village, Villa Sesta and the whole Saint Felice village, becoming a true land power, like many other Sienese families at the time.
At the beginning of the eighteenth century all the farmhouses that still exist today with the transformation of the most ancient churches into homes are indicated in the documents.
The only parish churches that have survived until the 1950ies were the church of the Villa named again Saint John and the one of Saint Lawrence and Fabian, that has only recently disappeared, but was still operative in the postwar period.
Villa d'Arceno lived its highest splendor in the nineteenth century when it was bought by Count Emilio Piccolomini Clementini that made his residence even more magnificent and entrusted the most famous architect of the time, Agostino Fantastici, with the creation of the English Wood (today known as Romantic Park) from nothing.
Fantastici worked from 1832 to 1844 (year of his death) creating the pond, all the buildings that still exist, the big bridge and the whole wooded part.
From 1855 the area started to decay, because the Estate shifted from one owner to the other and in the 1990ties it was split up and returned to live again in today's appearance of private properties
The antique splendor is still present in every farmhouse and traces of the ancient crafts are to be seen in not much known corners: what strikes today is the splendid harmony of the vines that follow the dancing movements of the hills and encircle with elegance the farmhouses.
Unpaved roads and footpaths wind among woods of holm-oaks and amazing alleys with cypress trees: who lives in these places breathes history and finds again peace and harmony, thanks to a respected nature.
Testimonial
"The Subsized School in Arceno" written by Piero Ruffoli
"The 60s were the years of the exodus.
Some farmers moved away from the countries to find job in iron and wood manufacturing companies while others,
the most enterprising ones, tried to find job in public bodies, banks or as guardians. They had normal working hours and were paid at the end of the month.
So landowners tried to limit the workforce exodus to avoid the collapse of the companies. But how did they do that? In many different ways: by changing sharecrop agreements in order to sustain farmers, by providing electric light to the country houses and improving the standard of life. But families had children and they had to go to school. But, where? Schools were only in some towns.
And in Arceno? Was there a school in Arceno? The children living in the country always went to school to San Gusmé but not every day because of rain, snow, wind and because they had to walk too much. Going to school was important to parents, but children's health was more. So, the state let the town halls determine the opening of a off center subsidized school, if a group of citizens, a manufacturing company or other renowned bodies needed it.
Ercole Settembre, the Acerno estate manager, was willing to provide rooms to the school and wood to heat them but the local town hall had to provide furniture (desks, blackboard, maps) and pay the teacher instead. I was asked to teach in this school and, at the end of the school year, I would have earned 100,000 lires, just 10,000 lires a month. I accepted and that was the beginning of my teaching adventure:
I call it that way because I had no experience as a teacher, I only had a teacher-training high school diploma and one hour training as a "hearer" during a week I spent in an elementary school in Porta Romana.
The school in Arceno was a subsidized school with students from the first year to the fifth year: they had lessons every morning and every afternoon except on Thursday. At the beginning, it was difficult to establish different programs for children of different ages, then my colleagues told me how to do. I taught there two years: the first one we stayed in a house on the left of the Chapel, which has been pulled down later. Children were glad to stop at Arceno, instead of going up to San Gusmé:
Morena, a girl of the first year, with lively black eyes, lived in Mulino dell'Ambra and had to go up to Arceno on foot. The road was long and steep and if she hadn't stopped there, she should have climbed Ritombola too. She had to walk a lot to go to school and to come back home. She took lunch with her and ate it in her friends' houses.
The situation was the same for other children coming from Camparone, a land in the middle of the wood and also for some patriarchal families like Faustini who had been living there for ages. Just to mention some of my fifteen-sixteen students, I remember five polite, respectful and very close cousins, whose name were Luciano, Vito, Anna, Dino, Lorena (Lorena was the oldest one), then Lorenzo Stendardi and Maria Teresa, Settembre's foster daughter.
Generally, at lunch, I ate a piece of meat that my mother put in my bag: it was cooked by Valeria, the cook of the farmhouse. She prepared it at lunch after serving pasta or potage.
February, 1961: it was Ash Wednesday and there was a total eclipse of the sun. It was getting dark and chickens were entering the henhouse. I took the opportunity to explain to my students that chickens thought the day was over and they would have stayed there until the sun shone again. Next year, the school moved to Arceno di Sopra where it stayed the following year too. Finally, the town hall provided a school bus service and the students went to San Gusmé, to the newly built school.
I have got some wonderful and pleasing memories of those two years but also some sad ones. I always remember what happened to the two sweet and intelligent boys twelve years later in August: in a hot afternoon they drowned in the fountain near Viale dei Cipressi, the road that leads to the Tondo.